Elk Island National Park: Exciting wildlife, beautiful sunrises and sunsets, inspiring bird singing, easy trails, stories of early Ukrainian settlers and delicious pizzas

By MALIK MERCHANT

After spending a few days in Japser National Park last autumn and witnessing millions and millions of stars as well as the Milky Way above the calm waters of Pyramid Lake during the Dark Sky Festival (click HERE to view Ron Richey’s photos), I arrived at Elk Island National Park, about 50 kms east of Edmonton, with the high hope that I would be able to once again view the wonders of the night sky because the National Park is part of the Beaver Hills Dark Sky Preserve and Beaver Hills Biosphere Reserve.

As tired as I was upon my arrival at Lamont, I still decided to drive from the park’s north entrance all the way to the south end, which is where the main visitor’s building is located. The feeling of driving on the Elk Island Parkway was different from the Rocky mountain roads that I had been driving through for the past several months. The Parkway was smooth and felt safe with a maximum speed limit of 60 kph and the green trees on either side of the road brought relief to my tired eyes. There were no mountains to overwhelm me and draw my attention away from the road. I felt peaceful and relaxed. For a moment I even thought I was in Africa, driving through the main road in Lake Manyara National Park. I always felt an animal would cross the road, and I sighted a few by the roadside including deers, elks, bisons and coyotes.

Yes, and what about the night sky. I realized we were in midsummer, and dusk at Elk Island National Park did not take place until almost 11:10 PM. A professional photographer, who was setting up his camera at the tiny Mud Lake View parking area, across from Bison Loop Road, asked me to return at 1:00 AM to experience the night sky and its wonders. I did that. The sky was dark and looked incredible, but the experience at Jasper was unsurpassable. The Milky Way was not visible to me with my naked eye, and the stars shone less brightly than they did in Jasper.

Being awake that late, broke my pattern of sleep for the remaining days I was at the National Park.

Thereafter, I returned to Mud Lake View on two occasions at 5:00 AM. What I witnessed at dawn was thrilling. I saw a large herd of bisons grazing in the lush green pastures at Mud Lake Viewpoint, not more than 100 metres from where I was standing in the car park. Many had their calves following them and suckling milk. Almost an hour later, the large herd of nearly 40 bisons crossed the Elk Island Parkway onto the meadows surrounding the Bison Loop Road — the visitor guide does suggest this short unpaved road to see bisons. The same herd then returned to Mud Lake. Motorists had to be careful and patient while the crossing was underway.

~~~~~~~~~

~~~~~~~~~

~~~~~~~~~

~~~~~~~~~

I then proceeded to Tawayik Lake. Just before reaching the parking area of the lake, I got the thrill of a lifetime as I watched a bison taking a sand bath for almost 2 minutes. It was astonishing to see the huge animal rolling and throwing so much sand in the air. Alas, I inadvertently deleted the video I captured. After the sand bath, the bison scratched both sides of his neck against the trunk of a tree.

TAWAYIK LAKE ROUTE: THE BISON

~~~~~~~

VIDEO: BISON RUBBING HIS SANDY NECK AGAINST A TREE

~~~~~~~

~~~~~~~

BEAVER POND TRAIL: SUNRISE, A UNIQUE SYMPHONY, INTIMACY AND AN INTRUSION!

During my stay at Elk Island, I stuck to my routine of waking up early and being inside the park by 4:30 AM. The sunrise at the Beaver Pond Trail was magnificent. All the while as the sun rose, an incredible musical performance was underway. I was surrounded by an invisible 360 degree stage. The joyful, merry and happy tunes from the birds and ducks in trees, air and in the pond made me marvel at God’s gift to all living things. I remembered the Qur’anic verse:

“Hast thou not seen how that whatsoever is in the heavens and in the earth extols God, and the birds spreading their wings? Each — He knows its prayer and its extolling; and God knows the things they do.” — 24:41, Sura Nur, translation by A. J. Arberry, see Corpus Quran for multiple translations.

Indeed, my prayers and praises, with all my heart, would not come anywhere close to theirs. That was a lesson for me — that while in prayer and meditation one should always carry a feeling of happiness.

~~~~~~~

~~~~~~~

MUST WATCH VIDEO: AN EXTRAORDINARY SYMPHONY AT SUNRISE

https://videopress.com/v/rvzXAatu?resizeToParent=true&cover=true&preloadContent=metadata&useAverageColor=true

LIVING WATERS BOARDWALK: THE BEAVER

At sunset and dusk, I made it a point to be at Astotin Lake. One evening, I saw beavers for the first time in almost 35 years. They were by the magnificent 400 metre Living Waters Boardwalk, giving me opportunities to take several photographs as well as videos of beavers cutting through branches that were floating in the lake’s lagoon waters.

~~~~~~~

~~~~~~~

A MUST WATCH VIDEO: BEAVER AT WORK

https://videopress.com/v/PLYsiCJY?resizeToParent=true&cover=true&preloadContent=metadata&useAverageColor=true

During the visit to Elk Island, I completed the entire 3.8 km Simmons Trail that starts across from Tawayik Lake parking area. I also partially walked the Amisk Wuche, Moss Lake and Beaver Trails, turning back in each case after about 1.5 km. There are a few long trails at Elk Island but as was mentioned on another blog — and I agree — the trails at Elk Island are repetitive and not as thrilling and exciting as the ones in the Kananaskis, Banff and Jasper. They go through aspen, birch spruce trees, meadows, and floating boardwalks. However, they provide a lot of relaxation and comfort and opportunities to simply sit, contemplate and reflect.

AMISK WUCHE TRAIL

~~~~~~~

SIMMONS TRAIL

~~~~~~~

Not to be missed during one’s visit to Elk Island National Park, is the nearby Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village that describes and showcases the community’s early setlement in Alberta. Literally, retail stores, residential spaces, community halls as well as churches from the early 20th century have been physically moved here from other places in Alberta to bring the Heritage Centre to life. My morning visit coincided with visits by 10 busloads of school children from all around the province. The “red barn” at the village has a restaurant that serves Ukrainian dishes as well as burgers, sandwiches, salads, soups, and ice cream.

UKRAINIAN CULTURAL HERITAGE VILLAGE

MORE WILDLIFE: PARK ADMINISTRATION & OPERATIONS ROAD

ASTOTIN LAKE: SUNSET AND DUSK

~~~~~~~

SUMMARY: PERSONAL SUGGESTIONS FOR ELK ISLAND NATIONAL PARK

• My accomodation was outside the Park in Lamont which has two hotels that were reasonably priced;
• Pick up the guide map of the park available at any entrance; it provides an excellent overview of all the 11 trails in the park ranging from a 400 metre board walk to a 15.6 km loop, the Wood Bison Trail (it was undergoing reconstruction and closed during my visit);
• At the beautiful main visitors centre in the south end of the park, near Hwy 11, view the educational exhibits both inside and outside the centre; and fill up water bottles from fountains or automated taps inside the centre; the visitor centre also has a wonderful shop;
• Try and be at the Mud Lake parking area — across from the Bison Loop Road — at dawn to see bisons; should you miss the bisons at Mud Lake, drive through the gravel Bison Loop Road that is just across from Mud Lake parking; also note that bisons cross the road (Elk Island Parkway) in both directions and there is a Texas Gate to safeguard wildlife;
• Visit Beaver Pond Trail to experience the spectacular morning twilight and sunrise, and hear the astonishing singing of the birds; walk the trail or part of the trail; when on trail see the ducks in the ponds and observe their intimacy;
• Spend the evening hours at Astotin Lake to see the beautiful sunset and dusk; the views are particularly stunning when ducks are swimming and there are canoes in the lake;
• At Atonin Lake do the Living Waters Boardwalk (this is a MUST.) The 400 metre loop offers many benches to sit, relax and look over the lagoon, hear the sounds of birds and ducks as well as watch beavers at work; beautiful too are views overlooking the lake from 2 red chairs located at top of small hill that you will see as you walk to the boardwalk from the main parking area by the beach;
• Drive to Tamayik Lake parking area and do the 2.6 km Simmons Trail. It starts across from the parking lot; go anti-clockwise thru trees and meadows and pass by a large pond (lake?) at right as you near the end of the trail; look out for birds and ducks in the pond; invest in a binocular!
• Drive through the Park Administration and Operation Road for more views of Astotin Lake and to see more wildlife — bisons, deers and elks — by the road side;
• Set aside 1.5 to 2 hours to visit the Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Centre which is a 5-7 minute drive from the main south side visitors centre;
• For a fantastic pizza and perfectly cooked steak go to the Gondola’s restaurant in Lamont — a 10 minute drive from the park’s north entrance; and
• If your car is full of bugs and needs a wash, there is a self-serving wand wash at the Esso gas station, just before the turning to Lamont town.

ENJOY Elk Island National Park. The VISITOR GUIDE AND TRAIL MAP will not let you down.

Date posted: June 20, 2023.

_________________

Before departing this website, please review our Home Page for links to our fantastic photo essays. We welcome feedback/letters from our readers. Please use the LEAVE A REPLY box which appears below. Please share this article link with your friends and family members. Please also visit this blog’s sister websites Simerg for Insights from Around the World and Barakah for pieces on His Highness the Aga Khan, members of his family and the Ismaili Imamat.