Iran and Alamut Like You Have Not Seen Before

By Muslim and Nevin Harji

Summary: There are no words to describe the hospitality, kindness, love and gentleness of the Iranian people. We have ventured into over forty countries, but never have we experienced such generosity. Our bodies may be back in Montreal, but Iranian hospitality has stolen our hearts which are probably somewhere either in Esfahan or Shiraz.

When we arrived in Tehran we found it to be a bustling, fast moving city with a population of 16 million people, and with the craziest drivers in the world. After a few days in Tehran, we ventured up North into the Alborz Mountain range to the quaint village of Ghazor Khan, the base of the historic Alamut Castle. The next morning we trekked up to Alamut Castle – quite an uphill hike! From Alamut, we bussed back to Esfahan via Tehran. Naqshe-e-Jahan, the heart of Esfahan, is surrounded by the Char Baghs and is one of the most wonderful sights we have ever seen. No words can describe this heaven on earth. From there, we crossed through Southern Iran to Shiraz via Yazd, Chak Chak, and Persopolis, and after just about a month on the road, took a flight home in early November.

Hafiz – Poet of the Soul

A statue of the Iranian poet Hafiz, who was born in Shiraz in 1315 and died there in 1390. He is a beloved figure of the Iranian people, who learn his verses by heart. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright.

…In him [Hafiz] we can find all the strivings, all the sorrow, all the victories and joys, all the hopes and disappointments of each and every one of us. It is not for nothing that his “Divan” has become, throughout the East, the supreme fal nama (book of divination) of millions and millions far beyond the confines of Iran….In each verse, with the intense concentration of thought and wisdom so singularly his own, he has produced in amazing variety facets of truth and beauty, of meaning and wisdom….Surely now there is room for us to turn to the spirit of Hafiz’s teaching. For if ever there was a time when we needed the universality of Hafiz as a guiding light it is today when there are forces that threaten the roots of humanity… Quotes of 48th Ismaili Imam, Sir Sultan Mahomed Shah Aga Khan (1877-1957)

Mausoleum of Hafiz in Shiraz, Iran. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright.

Even after all this time
The sun never says to the earth,
“You owe Me.”
Look what happens with
A love like that,
It lights the Whole Sky – Hafiz

The Canopy with intricate design and verses of Qur’an over Hafiz’s Tomb.
Shiraz, Iran. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright.

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Architecture

Darvaze-Qur’an or the Qur’an gate , in Shiraz, Iran, is an ark shaped monument near Qur’an Square. It used to be on Shiraz-Esfahan road at the far northeast of the city. A hand written Qur’an was placed at the top chamber of the arc, so that the passengers who were leaving the city or entering, would pass under the Qur’an for good luck, blessings and safety on their travels. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright.

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Nasr al-Mulk Mosque, Shiraz, Iran. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright.

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The interior pf the Nasr al-Mulk Mosque, Shiraz, Iran. The mosque extensively uses colored glass in its facade, and displays other traditional elements such as panj k seh-i (five concaves) in its design. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright.

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Kharanaq is an ancient mud-brick village, continuously inhabited for over 4000 years. It is in the middle of two deserts and surrounded by beautiful mountains. Parts of the village are over 1000 years old. Only a few families live there now –as most of them have moved to the more comfortable and modern parts of the village. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright.

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The Music Room at Alighapoo Palace. Situated on the sixth floor, there are deep curvy niches cut on the walls in form of shelves which account for the pleasing sound effects in the room. This room is also tastefully decorated, but the acoustic quality of the room is its main attraction. All carvings are done in forms of various musical instruments of the time. Carvings in the Roof of the music room at the Alighapoo Palace was designed in a way that two musicians created enough echo for impression of a full orchestra. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright.

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Built during the Safavid period in the 17th century, this mosque represents the finest in Islamic Architecture of Iran. The Shah Mosque of Esfahan, named as the Imam Mosque once Ayatollah Khomeini became Iran’s Supreme Leader following the disposal of the Shah in 1979, is registered along with the Naghsh-i Jahan Square (below) as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its construction began in 1611, and its splendor lies in the beauty of its seven-colour mosaic tiles and calligraphic inscriptions. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright.

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Naghsh-i Jahan Square with calligraphy at its finest, which include the Names of Allah, the Prophet Muhammad, and Hazrat Ali as well as Qur’anic Ayats. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright.

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The magnificent dome of the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, which is referred by different names such as ‘the mosque with the great dome’ and ‘the mosque of great purity and beauty’. The pale tiles of the dome change color, from cream through to pink, depending on the light conditions. It is one of the architectural masterpieces of Safavid Iranian architecture, standing on the eastern side of Naghsh-i Jahan Square, Isfahan, Iran. Construction of the mosque started in 1603 and was finished in 1618. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright.

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Ismaili Heritage – The Castle of Alamut

Alamut was a Nizari Ismaili stronghold for almost 170 years from 1090 and 1256 AC. The resilient Ismailis finally surrendered to the brutal Mongols, who had issued an edict with the chilling words, “none of that people should be spared, not even the babe in its cradle.”

The twisting road crossing three mountain ranges that brings visitors to Alamut. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright.

Alamut lies at the end of a tortured, winding road that twists and turns over three mountain ridges, countless valleys and across some of the wildest and most spectacular scenery in all Iran. No one comes here by accident. The 80kms journey from Qazvin takes some three hours of hard driving on a modern road that is only a few decades old. Before that, all that existed was a narrow donkey track to lead the traveller to his destination, a journey that could last days, and sometimes weeks.

The Quaint Valley of Ghazor khan at the foot of Alamut. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright

At the foot of the mountain on its western side lies the little village of Ghazor Khan, nestled among orchards of pretty cherry trees. From this position, the rock appears as a slim, rugged pyramid.

Nevin Harji…almost there. An official road sign. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright

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It is not until you come to the foot of this colossal mass of granite that you realize the immensity and impregnability of the fortress at its summit.Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright.

Bigger than anything else in the world it seems, the rock of Alamut is deeply scarred by grooves and curious striations that change colour with the quality of the light: now purple, now mauve, metallic grey, brown. You could almost believe this mass of rock was breathing like an immense, sleeping organism.

The well constructed 800 or so steps that take you some of the way-up before a narrow goat track laboriously winds its around the northern side of the rock to its eastern side. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright

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Local village boys offer donkey rides up part of the track, but the Harjis declined the offer. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright.

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The fortress itself clings impossibly to the summit of a gigantic boulder set against the high peaks of the Hawdeqan Mountains. It is a truly beautiful place. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright

The hills around the fortress are folded in delicate shades of pastel green or lavender, pinkish in some places, terra cotta in others. Ochres and browns are streaked in wide brush strokes across the landscape. It is a truly beautiful place.

The last part of the climb is a hair-raising assault up a vertical cliff face covered in scaffolding and wooden planks as a result of excavation work that has been underway for some time. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright.

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A tribute to the great Ismaili dai, Hasan bin Sabbah who was responsible for establishing the Alamut state after the divisions in the Fatimid Empire led to its eventual demise. Hasan maintained that Imam Nizar and not Musteali was the rightful heir to Imam Mustansir billah, the 8th Fatimid Caliph. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright.

Under the leadership of Hasan bin Sabbah, Alamut became the site of intense activity for the Shia Nizari Ismaili Muslims between 1090 and 1256 AC. During the medieval period, the castle functioned as the major stronghold of the Ismaili state. In 1256, Ismaili control of the fortress was lost to the invading Mongols and its famous library holdings were destroyed when the castle’s library was condemned to be burned by Ata-Malik Juwayni, a servant of the Mongol court.

Attaining the summit at Alamut is a breath-taking and exhilarating experience. The fortress complex, one soon discovers, sits astride a dangerously narrow ledge of rock resembling the handle and blade of a knife. The above is an open passage through the mountain. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright

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A portrait of an elder at the Albozor Mountain. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright

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At Alamut with a team of experts from the University Of Tehran in charge and overlooking the excavation project. Joining the trip, were Muslim’s sister Mehrun (standing, 2nd from left) with her husband on her right, Abdulla Suleman of Edmonton . Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright

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The discovery of a prayer room at Alamut with Ismaili spelt incorrectly on the sign. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright

Recent archeological excavations at Iran’s Alamut fortress have yielded food storage rooms and water reservoirs in the northwestern historical site as well as a prayer hall.

The Prayer Hall (with the mihrab on the left. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright

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A side view of the prayer hall. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright

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Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright

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The legendary water basin which filled itself up by collecting rainwater and melting snow from channels and canals on the mountains. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright.

In one of the rooms at Alamut, can be seen the legendary water basin which filled itself up by collecting rainwater and melting snow from channels and canals on the mountains. It was famed never to overflow. Other rooms were clearly intended for storage, perhaps once filled with barley, honey, oil, dried fruit and sheep fat to enable the citadel to hold out during a siege for years if need be. Legend has it that during the castle’s conquest and destruction by the Mongols, an invading soldier is reported to have fallen into one of these tanks and drowned in a vat of honey!

Today the Fort is being carefully excavated under the watchful eyes of experts from the University of Tehran. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright

Today, Alamut is being carefully excavated under the watchful eyes of experts. The eleventh season of archaeological excavations in the Alamut Castle for removing the detritions of tank water that is located northwest of the Cape began a few months ago.

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Portraits

Iran is full of rich culture and history with contributions in all facets of human progress and endeavour – in science, math, logic, poetry, engineering; the people of Iran have a love for nature; parks and gardens abound, and families picnic in the parks; the Iranian people have a love of humanity – they are outgoing, friendly, generous to each other as well as to visitors; they are also deeply passionate with deep running emotions, they are fun loving and full of spirit; everyone recites and writes poetry.

Iranian women have it all – charm, fun, and intelligence. The Harjis found this student lively, full of intelligence and great at debating. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright

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Ablution before prayers at the Jummah Mosque, Shiraz. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright.

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A couple in Gazor Valley enjoying dinner and whispering the love verses of Saadi and Hafez to each other. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright

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Nevin Harji with a group of Iranian High school students and their teacher visiting the Imam Mosque (Masjid-e Jam ‘e Abbasi) in Esfahan. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright.

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A Jummah (Friday) picnic in the park. Family and family time is highly valued in Iran. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright

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Foods

As a general description, food in Iran tends to be colorful, healthy and simple. Taste is added via herbs, light spices and fruit and the resulting dishes are mild as opposed to spicy. To taste true Iranian food, it is necessary to eat at an Iranian’s home. Most restaurants in Iran limit the food they sell to different types of kebabs and there is, therefore, very little variety.

Nan Sangak (stone bread), is the most famous and most delicious Iranian bread. Nan Sangak is baked over hot small pieces of rocks/stones. Photo: Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright.

Nan Sangak (stone bread), is the most famous and most delicious Iranian bread. Nan Sangak is baked over hot small pieces of rocks/stones. Nan or Noun in Persian language means bread, and Sang means rock or stone. Iranians eat most of their traditional foods with Nan Sangak. Iranians love Nan Sangak for breakfast, lunch and dinner! There are Nan Sangak bakeries in every corner of every street, thus Iranians rarely make nans at home.

Fresh nans off the stone tandoor. Calling home…how many? while another customer has his palm full. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright

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Dried Fruit and Nut shop, Tehran. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright

One of the distinctions of the Iranian cuisine is the subtlety of the seasonings, which limits the use of garlic so as not to offend others. Onions and garlic are used only with discretion, but cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, saffron, paprika, nutmeg, turmeric and dill are used with artistry: never overpowering, always gently enhancing the main ingredients.

To balance the natural sweetness of fresh and dried fruits used so often in cooking, the Iranian cook adds judicious amounts of tartness by using one of the following: VERJUICE, the sour juice of unripe grapes, lemon or lime juice, strips of dried limes, dried tangerine peel or tamarind. Powdered SUMAC, with its chili-powder appearance and sour taste, is a seasoning often used for broiled meats. Pomegranate juice and seeds are often used both for color and tartness.

Fruit and vegetable stall in the bazaar. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright

The climate of the Middle East is conducive to growing fruits, and the orchards and vineyards of Iran produce fruits of legendary flavor and size. These are not only enjoyed fresh and ripe as desserts, but are also imaginatively combined with meats and form unusual accompaniments to main dishes.

While the eggplant is the “potato of Iran,” Iranians are fond of fresh green salads dressed with olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper and a little garlic. Vegetables such as pumpkins, spinach, string beans, varieties of squashes and carrots are commonly used in rice and meat dishes.

Trucks carrying dried fruits and nuts selling on the highway. When certain fresh fruits are not available or are in short supply, a large variety of excellent dried fruits, such as dates, figs, dried apricots and peaches are used instead. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright

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Our hostess in Esfahan had especially prepared Basmati rice with berries, kebabs, lentil barley soup and a mixed garden salad. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright

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If you are fortunate enough to experience Iranian hospitality, then you will be extremely surprised by their warmth and eagerness to ensure that you are well looked after. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright

Dizi, or Ab-Goosht, is one of the most traditional Iranian food, that is eaten with Nan Sangak. Goosht in Persian language means meat, and Ab means water, so Ab-Goosht means water and meat. It is cooked mainly by boiling beans and legumes, meat, potato, tomato, onion, and a lot of water. Eating Dizi has its own tradition and techniques! You must soak your nan in the sauce of dizi and enjoy it with soft-boiled meat and vegetables on the side.

Leisurely enjoying a Chelo Kebab, Doough, (lassi) and a traditional Dizi. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright

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Dining in Iran is a leisure activity…No fast food, no rush, just pure pleasure. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright

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Many traditional dining rooms have live recitals of gazals (poetry) while the patrons are dining. The recital is usually accompanied by a santoor, a lute, a duff, and a violin. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright

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National Beverage

The national beverage of Iran is sweet, clear tea, often sipped through a sugar cube. Sweet tea starts the day, breaks the work hours, may accompany social or business engagements and sometimes meals.

Agha’s Chai shop in Shiraz, where he sells different varieties of teas. This tea shop has been in Agha’s family for generations. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright

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A street vendor in Tehran serving steaming hot chai. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright

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Muslim Harji and friends savouring Agha’s hospitality. Sharing a cup of chai with Agha’s family on a Jummah picnic, Darvaz-e-Quran Park, Shiraz. Photo: Muslim Harji, Montreal, PQ, Canada. © Copyright.

© Copyright: Muslim/Nevin Harji.

Date Updated: November 17, 2014.

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Editor’s note: In compiling the text and captions for Alamut in the above piece, the authors made extensive use of Ryszard Antolak’s 2010 article Journey to Alamut which can be read at the following links:

1. http://poetrania.blogspot.co.uk/2010/05/journey-to-alamut.html
2. http://www.iranian.com/main/2010/mar/journey-alamut

Profile of Muslim and Nevin Harji at Contributors.

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